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Asante (Ghana)
Kente Cloth - Man’s wrapper
Mid-20th Century
Rayon
Private Collection
Kente cloth is now recognized throughout the world as
quintessentially African cloth, with its bright colors and patterns appealing
to African and Western eyes alike. Kente originates from Ghana in West
Africa. Traditionally woven by
men on narrow strip looms, kente consists of long continuous strips, four
to eight
inches in width, that
are then cut to desired lengths and sewn together to form a single piece.
Men wear larger kentes toga-style, while women wear smaller ones
wrapped around their bodies, usually in a two-piece ensemble.
Kente appears in a variety of ceremonies and rituals ranging from
funerals, marriages and initiation rites to harvest blessings and gifts.
It can also be used in shrines to pay homage to the gods. In these ways,
the kente cloth seems to be an integral part of many aspects of both daily
and ritual life.
This man’s wrapper consists of a tightly structured pattern
of recognizable lines and colors based on an established set of rules,
reflecting the hierarchical,
kingship-based nature of Asante society. Royal patronage stimulates and controls the
production of kente. While royal
patronage does little to limit the range of kente’s patterns, it maintains
a stronghold on the nature of the cloths’ names as well as its production and use. Using the warp strips and colors as their
point of
departure, Asante weavers name their cloths based on
historical events, important leaders, natural phenomena, and proverbs
that illustrate social morals and
qualities of good leadership. This cloth depicts the proverb, "If you climb a good tree,
you get a push," extolling the idea that a king who rules well has
the support of his people. Both
the proverb and the cloth illustrate the important role of
leadership, and the need to exercise it appropriately.
Beth Rosenfeld ’03
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