CULTURE AND CUSTOMS OF MEXICO AND BRAZIL

Introduction

Travelers

Scientific-Anthropological Shift

Images

Sources

Culture. The word itself is so encompassing; it has the potential to bring to mind photographs, first-hand observations, text-book drawings, video clips, and much more. Today we live in a society which both embraces and promotes "cultural experiences," - ones right within our own communities as well as those to be found in a foreign nation. From television programs such as National Geographic, to the multitude of texts and travel books to be found in the public library or the nearest Barnes and Noble, we are afforded unlimited access to boundless information about different world cultures. With the click of the mouse we find images of flamenco dancers in Andalucia splashed across the screen, ancient Samurai warriors of Japan, the Australian aboriginees, depictions of the Aztec and Mayan ruins, of the Hutu and Tutsi of Burundi and Rwanda...the list forever continues. Why such an abundance of accounts, recordings and observations of other peoples? Our own curiosities have, throughout the centuries, driven us to explore and investigate, to question and document. We are fascinated by the foreign, intrigued by the unfamiliar, enchanted by the exotic, captivated by the alien. We feel compelled to understand other peoples and their customs - perhaps to better appreciate their ways of life, perhaps to further comprehend ourselves...regardless of the motivation, it is clear that throughout the course of history, peoples of a given land and culture have traveled by whatever means available so as to permit themselves a glimpse of another world.

Although today, if one were searching for information regarding the cultures of Mexico and Brazil, he would automatically flee to the library or surf the internet, such conveniences did not exist for inquiring minds prior to the late twentieth century. Thus, those living within the approximate time frame of 1850 to 1950 and who yearned for a touch or taste of the exotic actually had to make the trip.

TRAVELERS

Of the eight travelers presented, only fifty percent truly touched upon the customs and culture of the peoples inhabiting the lands they visited. Those traveling in the earlier half of this time block did so primarily for scientific reasons, and therefore the writings produced seldom mentioned (if at all), any information regarding traditions, ceremonies, or other aspects of the general way of life. Jean Louis Rodolphe Agassiz's expedition in 1865 precipitated from his interest as a natural scientist - his excursion's sole purpose was to attempt to prove Cuvier's Catastrophism Theory B, and thus his energies were focused upon finding evidence of glaciers in Brazil...(an unsuccessful endeavor). His only comments concerning culture are of a negative tone, as he notes that the "Brazilians have not only false religions and civil traditions to forget, and the native inertness of tropical character to contend with, but their progress is further embarrassed by the wide-spread degeneracy resulting from amalgamation of whites and blacks and Indians, and in turn of their common offspring," (383).

William Marshall Anderson did not speak at length about the customs of Mexico either, (although comparatively speaking, he incorporated a great deal more cultural information than did Agassiz). Anderson's basic observations were related to the caste system established in Mexico prior to his travels. He commented upon the fact that the large number of blacks within the region had dissipated; that most of the people whom he encountered seemed to be "the product of mixed backgrounds." This is not surprising, considering the fact that the social system was arranged with the Europeans at the top, "then the creoles, the Spaniards born in America; below them were the mestizos, the half breeds; the Indian was at the bottom of the scale. The Europeans had the fertile lands, political office, and social standing. Denied the plumes of public office and a place in the social ranks, the creoles turned to business, where many grew rich. What was left after the Spaniards and creoles had divided the spoils was given to the mestizo. The Indian served them all" (Ruiz xvi). Aside from the social order, Anderson briefly mentioned scenes such as that of the marketplace in Cordova, where the natives were seen squatting down on the street stones with their "goods for sale spread out in fron of them on a mat." He noted the brilliant colors as he passed by - the colors of the palaces, houses and churches.

Like Agassiz, Konrad Guenther travelled for scientific reasons. A naturalist, Guenther sought to produce a detailed guide of the flora and fauna of Brazil that would facilitate the expeditions of subsequent explorers. His writings were therefore devoted to his examinations of nature: "After all, what is it that he most of all wants to know? He wants, I think, to know the name of these great scarlet flowers; and what sort of palms those are that overlook the housetops; and how one can best enjoy a sight of monkeys, parrots and hummingbirds." Cultural tidbits were therefore scarce, however, at the near conclusion of his book he did indicate a preference for Brazilians, and noted his comfort in their presence. In one catching quote Guenther even downplayed other cultures so as to highlight the natives: "The more primitive the houses in which I stayed, the less influenced by European civilization, the more interesting I found them," (357).

Indians of the Sierra Templada (Mexico)
Wood engraving from "Orbis Pictus" by Otto Spamer, 1874.

 

Where Guenther's cultural notes were few in number, those of Theodore Roosevelt were nonexistent. Traversing the Brazilian tropics in 1913, the U.S. President found himself in regions previously unchartered. Exploring the "unexplored," Roosevelt's journey through the river basin left him no opportunity to interact with the natives: "We have had a hard and somewhat dangerous but successful trip. No less than six weeks were spent...forcing our way down through what seemed a literally endless succession of rapids and cataracts. For forty-eight days we saw no human being..."

Although Roosevelt's trek occurred in the early twentieth century, his writings did not reflect cultural experiences. Wallace Gillpatrick, however, although his travels commenced eight years prior to those of Roosevelt, did write rather extensively upon the customs and traditions that he witnessed while in Mexico. At the turn of the century one sees a tremendous shift from strictly scientific writings and records to observations and documentations of an anthropological and/or personal nature. Wallace was an advocate for studying other cultures: "Mexican writing is highly desirable for resident Americans, and will be found of great value in the study of Mexican life and customs." During his trip he carefully watched the bullfights, took note of the small wooden crosses marking his path, studied the native clothing of the indigenous peoples, and engaged himself in the social scene by way of fiestas: "A delightful part of Mexico is the suddeness with which fiestas drop down on you" (181). Although his original intent was to visit a friend who happened to own a few mines over the border, Gillpatrick found himself remaining in the country longer than anticipated, as his fondess of the land and peoples grew. "I felt the irresistable desire to travel; to become acquainted with Mexico and the Mexican people / I knew that beyond the mountains was the real Mexico with its opulent cities, its splendid architecture, and its wealth of romance and beauty" (84-85). He found it hard to return home after six years among amigos. "Two ties united my heart to Mexico - first, love of friends, last and always, her mountains," (374).

From 1915 on, the writings become increasingly more anthropological in nature. Harry Franck's "chief objective" was said to be the "invesigation of the masses" in Mexico, and thus he "worked and mingled always with the common people." Franck comments at length upon the plight of those he sees in the streets: "One wondered why there was not general suicide in such a community of unmitigated misery...It seemed strange that these sunken-chested, hobbling, halt, shuffling, shivering, starved creatures should still fight for a life. Why did they not suddenly rise and sack the city? No wonder those are ripe for revolution whose condition cannot be made worse," (29). He wrote of the commotion of the marketplaces and the schools at Guanajuato, of the food in Monterey, of burials and literacy, of bandits and priests.

"One the whole there was little appearance of 'religion'...Priests were not often seen in the streets. Mexican law forbids them to wear a distinctive costume, hence they dress in black derbies, Episcopal neckbands, and black capes to the ankles," (San Louis Potosi, 32).

(Of Zamora) - "It's bishop is rated second in all Mexico only to that of the sacred city of Guadalupe. Here are monasteries, and monks, and nuns in seclusion, priests roam the streets in robes and vestments, form processions, and display publically the 'host' and other paraphernalia of their faith; all of which is forbidden by the laws of Mexico," (147-148).

"The school had been founded some six months before by a woman of wealth, and offered free instruction to the sons of peons. But the Indians as always were suspicious, and for the most part refused to allow their children to be taught by the 'witchcraft' of the white man," (59).

"The population of the State is some eighty percent illiterate...the women of all classes are almost without exception illiterate. The church refused to educate them, and sternly forbids anyone else to do so," (148).

"But trouble is never far off in Mexico, since the failure of its rapidly changing governments to put down bands of marauders has given every rascal in the country the notion of being his own master," (158).

Mexican street market, 1916
 

"A cheerful but slatternly Indian woman set before me a thin soup containing a piece of squash and a square of boiled beef, and eight hot corn tortillas of the size and shape of our pancakes, or gkebis, the Arab bread, which it outdid in toughness and total absence of taste," (14).

Bess Adams Garner, whose travels to Mexico took place in the early to mid 1930's, focused in large part upon the culture in which she became immersed. In fact, she stated her goal as being to "extend a new understanding and appreciation [to Americans] for the cultural roots of their Mexican neighbors." In her work Mexico: Notes in the Margin (1937), Garner covered everything from fiestas to sugar factories, from church to the "fresh morning air."

"The trip was beautiful in the fresh morning air, the village unusually clean and sweet, with many flowers and a special brown and white sarape. In front of the church three groups danced. The members of each group/went into the church, dropped on their knees, went to the altar that way, and offered their dance to the patron saint, the Padre Jesus. Their costumes were unusually picturesque, many feather headdresses, beads, and shells. The dance music was all played by the dancers, on gourd and armadillo instruments with a few guitars. They did Los Concheros (Shell dance) for hours."

"While these groups were dancing, the employees of a sugar factory nearby with horses and mules did a sort of comedy saga of the events of a mule-driver's day, in a corral that had been built for them. Men were erecting posts for the night's fireworks, dozens of puestos (stands) were doing a thriving business, and four bands played their noisiest best."

"I noticed groups of people within the church in devout attention -paying no heed to what was going on behind them. The atmosphere seemed more real, more sincere, than at any other fiesta we attended - all the more surprising, of course, because the village is almost in the outskirts of Mexico City."

David Maybury-Lewis is perhaps the traveler with the most information concerning culture and customs - not an astonishing fact considering his post as a world renowned anthropologist. Traveling to Brazil in 1955-56, and then again in 1958, Lewis' attention is entirely devoted to the Brazilian natives: the way in which they dance, their religious ceremonies, hunting strategies, social hierarchy...even their attitudes towards intercourse.

Arrival: Unloading the luggage (Brazil, 1956)

 

"For a while Jacinto considered all the possible lines of rejoinder. Finally he slipped into the pose which came most naturally to him. He complained. 'I too am hungry. My family goes hungry because I have to look after my people. Sherente are great ones for asking, and they think that because I am chief they can just ask and ask and I can go on giving and giving. One wants money for seed, another wants money for ammunition. One wants money to buy clothes like our forefathers did. We have to have dresses for our women and then they ask for combs and perfume and beads, and all these things cost money. And those that have no money, they come to me and say, - Kwiro (his Sherente name), you are our chief, You must help us,'" (79).

"Sizapi wore a palm circlet around his head and his body was plastered with fine white down. The last rays of the sun glinted on the scarlet stripes of his regalia. There was a new assurance in his manner as he walked up and down, marshalling the line of dancers and motioning them into position with his painted dance rattle. Only the gentle, diffident voice cajoled rather than led, questioned rather than inspired confidence," (60).

""I was wondering whether bathing was the only really sensual pleasure which Central Brazil had to offer. With the possible exception of sex? Among the neighboring Brazilians sex was something furtive, quick and uncomfortable. Men talked about it and fought about it. Women moaned about it. One got the impression that people took their love as they took their food, a mess on a tin plate to be stirred up and gobbled..." (45).

"Strange to think I was out hunting with/Indians. We emerged onto the savannah and found them (the 'Red Indians') grouped under a spreading cashew tree. The deliciously juicy fruits had all been eaten and the ground was littered with the nuts..." (49).

"One day he surprised me by telling me that he had been on a visit to 'Jesus, Our Mother.' That is, he would have visited him (or was it her?) had a long-tailed monster not turned him back when he reached a log leading over an impassible swamp. I questioned him as best I could about this polymorph and could only conlcude that the confustion of sex had been aroused in his mind by hearing Catholics talking about mysterious figures like 'Our Lady of Jesus.' In any case, it was clear that he was getting desperate, since the Sherente deity Waptokwa would not respond to his prayers," (55).

Maybury-Lewis: Intercultural Exchange, Brazil (1956)

Sources:

Agassiz, Professor and Mrs. A Journey in Brazil. 1868. University Press: Welch, Bigelow, & Co., Cambridge. Boston, 1868.

Anderson, William Marshall. An American in Maximilian's Mexico 1865-1866. Ed. Ramon Eduardo Ruiz. San Marino: The Huntington Library, 1959.

Franck, Harry A. Tramping Through Mexico, Guatemala and Honduras: Being the Random Notes of an Incurable Vagabond. New York: The Century, 1916.

Garner, Bess Adams. Mexico: Notes in the Margin. Boston: Houghton Mifflin, 1937.

Gillpatrick, Wallace. The Man Who Likes Mexico. New York, NY: The Century Company, 1912.

Kozar, Richard. Theodore Roosevelt and the Exploration of the Amazon Basin. Philadelphia: Chelsea House Publishers, 2001.

Maybury-Lewis, David. The Savage and the Innocent. Boston: Beacon Press, 1956.

Images:

(Brazilian mother) <www.wku.edu/~keelidj/kiisprog.htm>

(Cashews) <www.hudsonintlco.com/cashewfactory.html>

(Churchyard) <braziltravelnews.com/info/Olinda.html>

(Rainbow) <www.mrs.umn.edu/cerp/abroad/BrazilTest2.htm>

(Handshake) <www.businessculture.com/norway/>

(Mexico map) <www.iwon.com/.../0,14823,North_America-468,00.htm>