Ghana
Man’s Shirt with Mobile Phone Patterned Cloth
2000
Cotton
Private Collection

Cote d’Ivoire

Factory Printed Cloth

Hair of Aoulaba

1980’s                                                                 

Cotton                                                                

Private Collection

 

 

        Although the Hair of Aoulaba factory printed cloth and Man’s Shirt with Mobile Phone cloth originate from different cultures found in neighboring African Countries, they do communicate through their media, method of construction, and iconography the ability to convey meaning through visual language.  Non-verbal communication may be a more acceptable form of addressing sensitive issues, as it serves as a vehicle to maintain open communication and to provoke thought in others without direct confrontation.  As with verbal communication, visual language functions on a variety of levels. 

        Reading on an iconographic level, the mobile phone images printed on this Ghanaian man’s shirt denotes the wealth, knowledge, and technological savvy of its wearer.  The particular colors, decorative elements and shapes of a garment immediately mark out the wearer of such an item as enjoying prestige, great wealth, and status.  The hairdo motifs in the cloth from Cote d’Ivoire may relate to the importance of the head, which in most African cultures is considered the most powerful and spiritual part of the body.  Intricate hairstyles maintain the balance and composure of the wearer by mediating between the internal subjective realm and external social realms.

        These cloths also function on a more conceptual or anecdotal level.  In terms of the Ghanaian shirt, the mobile phone imagery may suggest that communication is an essential factor in all facets of life as a means toward achieving wisdom, happiness, and success.  In conjunction with this conceptual mode of thought, many times these printed cloths are associated with proverbs that do not necessarily relate to their iconography.  The cloths are generally awarded their proverbial titles by vendors, usually women, who sell them in the markets.  The ensuing non-verbal dialogue occurs mostly between women, while the messages that these cloths convey are accessible to the community at large.  Proverb cloths function similarly to billboards in the sense that their messages are not limited in duration: they are repeated and reinforced as long as they are seen and decoded. (Domowitz, 1992).  This particular cloth with hairstyle motifs is called The Hair of Aoulaba.  The word aoulaba means beautiful, large, full-figured woman.  It refers to the Miss Aoulaba beauty pageant that was established by Madame Therese, the wife of a former president of Cote d’Ivoire, who was herself a large figured woman.  She was extremely opposed to the trim Western standard of beauty that had been popularized in the media and through the Miss Cote d’Ivoire Pageant.  Upon donning a garment constructed from this cloth, the wearer would be recognized as making a social commentary concerning these diverging canons of beauty. 

                                                                                     Hillary deMarchena ‘02

 

 

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