Yoruba (Nigeria)

Man’s shirt (gbariye) and pants (sokoto)

Rayon and cotton

20th Century

Private Collection

         For the Yoruba, of Nigeria, cloth and clothing is important indicator ofwealth and status.  This garment not only exemplifies such values but reflects the Yoruba’s history of contact with the Muslim Hausa to their north. It consists of a robe, or gbariye, a Yorubaword, and pants, or sokoto, derived from the Hausa language.  In its overall shape and constructions, the ensemble reflects Islamic influence brought by way of the Hausa in the early 19th Century.  However, the Yoruba version differs from dress of the latter because of the addition of gusset inserts, the Yoruba-constructed materials out of which it is made, and its colors. The purplish/red color of the ensemble, known as alaari (or "reddish, dyed cloth") is considered of utmost value to the Yoruba. Likewise, the embroidery design on the front and one on the back, known as eleven knot motifs (pako), is also prestige associated, and may well have Islamic roots. 

         The ensemble is constructed of a form of narrow strip weaving the Yoruba call aso-oke ("cloth from the hinterland").  The strips are then sewn together to create the garment.  Typical of Yoruba gbariye construction, the sleeves are attached to the gown perpendicularly so that the wearer can bunch up the sleeves onto the shoulders to create the appearance of abundance.  Likewise, the voluminous pants (sokoto) are drawn up around the waist to create large folds in the cloth.  The type and amount of cloth, and the size of the garment, imply wealth, and thus the importance of the person wearing it.  Yoruba garments also seem to enhance dance performances because the cloth swings around the body, following the movements of the dancer.

                                                                                         Sarah Lerman  ’02